Some Courage with your Coffee?

Part 1 

ITT or Independent travel time is an OG time honoured tradition of temporarily abandoning its participants so they can stretch their legs and comfort zones independently while Trip Leaders get some well-deserved R&R. So, with everyone off on their own adventures in Belize and Petén, I got to shed some stresses in the tropical heat and cool waters of Rio Dulce. But after a couple days of repose I became restless and decided to return to El Estor to reconnect with anti-mining activists Raúl and María. Together we visited the barrio of La Unión and spoke with Germán. An amazing young man who had been shot by CGN (a wholly owned subsidiary of Canadian corporation, Hudbay Nickel) security forces in 2009 and left for dead. Miraculously he survived but the bullet had cut through his back, severing his spinal column and paralyzing him from the waist down. Subsequently placed in Guatemala’s underfunded public health system, Germán developed an ulcer and again would have almost certainly died had it not been for the timely intervention of Transitions, a courageous and caring group of North Americans and Guatemalans dedicated to rehabilitating trauma victims. Since then, however, Germán’s life as become no less difficult. After 18 months of recovery in different hospitals and rehabilitation centres across El Salvador and Guatemala, the permanent paraplegic returned home to find his wife gone, leaving him and his poor family with sole responsibility for his infant son. Now 23 years old, Germán continues to live with his parents, and his little boy, in their small home in El Estor.

Germán Chub Choc

In September, shortly after my visit, Germán bravely spoke out and shared his story publicly for the first time. But while the truth is finally being told, no justice is likely to come for Germán, not in Guatemala and certainly not in Canada. So, although Raúl, María, and Rights Action can do little to assist in apprehending German’s would be assassin in a climate of corporate impunity they are helping the young man carve out a new life.  Accordingly, they are appealing on Germ'an behalf for $7,500 to sustain his on-going medical treatments as well as support his own initiative to construct a small corner store that he himself could own and operate, and through which provide his family with a sustainable living. 

German’s Appeal:

“I, GERMAN CHUB CHOC, 23 years old, ID card number Q 18-40,585, of the community of El Estor, Izabal, am sending out this appeal to the international community and good-hearted people. I am a victim of the actions of the CGN (Guatemala Nickel Company) located in El Estor, Izabal. I was left disabled on September 27, 2009, the day of the murder of ADOLFO ICH CHAMAN, our campesino leader in Barrio La Union, El Estor, Izabal.

I am a man of meagre means and my parents are unemployed. This is why I am submitting to you a request for the following items that will help me with my daily needs and my mobility…”

GERMAN’S STORE = $5,500

On the family property, German and his family will build a small store structure (think tiny, local, corner store). It will be mainly a wood structure – framing, floor, doors & walls. It will have tin roofing, shelves, a refrigerator and small freezer, etc. It will be a wheel-chair friendly facility with a large open front and counter (and wooden shutters), ramps, doors and locks. The budget was prepared by German, his family and local community leaders that have been supporting German since he returned to El Estor and can be provided upon request.

GERMAN’s HEALTH NEEDS = $2,000

German also requires the following items for his daily life:

• RUBBER GLOVES: 2 PAIRS A DAY
• LUBRICANTS: 1 TUBE PER WEEK
• TOILET PAPER: 2 ROLLS PER DAY
• 12 MG STERILE CATHETER: 1 PER MONTH
• 10MG BLADDER CONTROL PILLS: 1 PER DAY
• ANTIBIOTIC MEDICATION, CIRIAX, CIPROFLOXACINO: 1 PER MONTH
• CIREX PILLS: 2 PER WEEK
• SOAP: 2 BARS PER WEEK
• LIQUID DISINFECTANT SOAP: 1 CONTAINER PER WEEK
• CLORINE DISINFECTANT: 1 GALLON PER MONTH
• A QUICKIE “COMPLETA” ACTIVE LIFE STYLE ALUMINUM WHEELCHAIR

“All the parts of this wheelchair are made of aluminium and suitable for my personal needs. I really need your help with these items as they are very expensive and I am unable to purchase them for myself. I would greatly appreciate it if you could provide me with QUICKIE “COMPLETA” wheelchair. This brand is very sturdy and recommended by doctors.

I am asking for your help out of real need. I have no other option but to knock on the doors of members of the international community. I hope I can appeal to your hearts, as I feel abandoned and dejected. THIS IS ALL THE FAULT OF THE MINING COMPANY.”

To make a tax-deductible donation and help Germán…

1.    Make check payable to "Rights Action" and mail to:

UNITED STATES: Box 50887, Washington DC, 20091-0887

CANADA: 552 - 351 Queen St. E, Toronto ON, M5A-1T8

2.    Make a donation via credit card at http://rightsaction.org/contributions.htm

3.    Make stock donation by contacting info@rightsaction.org

Under certain conditions, we can also put donors in direct touch with local community leaders who work closely with German. Please contact me or Rights Action if you have any questions or comments.

Ben Sampson Program Coordinator, Operation Groundswell 416-505-4262 ben@operationgroundswell.com

Grahame Russell Co-director, Rights Action 860-352-2448 info@rightsaction.org www.rightsaction.org www.facebook.org/RightsAction

Part 2

After saying goodbye to Germán and another fond farewell to Raul and María the following morning, I continued west back across the rocky roads of the Porochic Fault and Minas Mountains to Lanquin, El Retiro Lodge, and the friendly company of Anna and Karen. Together with Allison, we celebrated Anna’s birthday complete with chocolate banana daiquiris and bar-top dancing. And the following day the four of us finally got our day at Guatemala’s natural spa, Semuc Champey, complete with a candle lit tour of the Kamba caves. That night, however, Allison and I had to say goodbye again, this time to Anna, Karen, and new friend, Francine. Francine was a big, black Scorpion (about the size of my hand) who had decided to inhibit my tent and seemed intent on sharing one last night together in my sleeping bag even it killed her, which, as it happened, it did but not before she got off one epic luv bite. The next day, having survived my all too intimate encounter, at 5am Allison and I were back on a micro and off to the Guatemala’s Western Highlands for a 2 day visit to Santa Anita La Unión and the Asociación de Productores de Café Santa Anita (APCASA). The organic coffee and banana growing cooperative was formed by ex-guerrilla combatants who fought during the 36-year internal armed conflict that ravaged Guatemala until 1996. The community is made up of 32 families who have worked together since the Peace Accords to construct two schools, a daycare centre, a pharmacy, and a public library. They have also initiated an ecotourism project and developed coffee roasting and exportation abilities. After, a brief stop in Xela to pick-up Nikki, the three of us continued north-west by Chicken Bus to Columba from where we took a pick-up to the community where we would be staying. Despite their amazing progress, the cooperative has recently fallen on hard times. A split with La Asociación Maya de Pequeños Agricultores (AMPA) motivated APCASA’s abandonment by American “fair trade” distributor, Cooperative Coffees, and caused the loss of their exportation licence. Allison, Nikki, and I stayed with families on the finca while learning about their continued toils. Community leader and cooperative director, Sergio, explained how difficult it was to trade their guns for machetes. He described how during the war they had only trained and taught the defensive and offensive tactics of war, but in its aftermath they needed to train and teach the strategies of producing and marketing coffee. He said that during the conflict there had been no hope of acquiring a title, a diploma, or a degree. And that’s why the 32 families who spoke 5 different languages and came from 5 different departments organized and traded their tools of war for tools of peace and the means of increased prosperity. Now the cooperative and surrounding community has, according to Sergio, become a school for coffee cultivation and commercialization where they no longer learn the art of war but rather the art of agriculture. In a country where exportation only exists in the vocabularies of big company’s and has become synonymous with exploitation, amazingly, Santa Anita La Unión is attempting to convince fellow producers of the value of one of the country’s most common commodities. APCASA’s argues that coffee, like cocoa and others, provides a symbol of “amistad,” of “solidaridad”, and a vehicle for exchange, not only of cash and crops, but of ideas; ideas that begin with a respect for each other and for the environment, both which are integral to Mayan cosmology and the practices of a primary commodities producer. In other words coffee has become, for these ex-guerrillas, the means to motivate a modern “pink” and peaceful revolution.

Lazy & Crazy on the Cahabón (Written for the OGG Blog)

Semuc Champey

The geological oddity that is Semuc Champey is widely advertised as the most beautiful spot in Guatemala. It consists of a series of limestone pools and gentle waterfalls that perch atop the raging Cahabón River. At its mouth, visitors can gawk as the river disappears in a torrent beneath their feet, and then, after relaxing in the cascading turquoise blue waters above, watch as the river furiously remerges 300m below.

The Cahabón River

The Cahabón Disappearing Beneath Semuc Champey's Lime Stone Bridge

And Reappearing 300m Below

Meanwhile, up above...

Photo courtesy of Laura Huddart

OGG, after an epic week in Tzibal, arrived in Lanquin, a quiet town that largely exists as a service station and hub for the travellers looking to lay eyes on and wallow in the waters of the Lanquin River and nearby Semuc Champey. There, the group settled into a cabana at El Retiro Lodge, a “backpackers paradise” if there ever was one, to enjoy the first of 3 days of relaxation and reflection before ITT. On day 2, OGG migrated the 11 km to Las Marias, a more modest refuge strategically situated 800m from Semuc’s gates. The group spent the better part of the day basking in the sun and bathing in the pools of Semuc before taking to candle light and exploring the nearby Kamba Caves.

Despite its many hotels, hostels, and rumours that Lanquin would imminently acquire its first ATM, rumours that have been circulating since my first visit in 2007, the tourist town still provides no way of getting all important Quetzales. So, leaving the group at Guatemala’s natural spa, Allison and I hauled ass into Cobán to haul out dinero. Not an unenjoyable journey by pick-up and micro through the “egg carton hills” and one which was deliciously capped off by a lunch of empanadas and papas fritas. But, TIG (this is Guatemala) and with wait times the 4hr trip turned into 6 and we returned from our day just in time to see the rest of the group returning in inner tubes from theirs.

The following day the group returned to Lanquin to meet the guys from the Association of Tourism and Ecological Development of Saquijá (ADETES). Deep in the thick of the Guatemalan jungle, and tucked into the mountains of Alta Verapaz, the community of Saquijá was founded over 100 years ago by a group of three families. Today the community boasts about 1000 residents, most of whom live as subsistence farmers. But since 2006, they have begun to use the attraction of the river to improve their circumstances through a community based tourism initiative. ADETES has received professional training from international rafting instructors and the Red Cross of Guatemala and now guides foreigners and locales alike down the class I, II, III, IV, and V’s of the Río Lanquin and Río Cahabón, on a route that has been ranked one of the top twelve jungle river trips in the world by Paddler Magazine.

The "Dream Team"
Photo Courtesy of Allison Isaak

Sadly, Laura had fallen ill and she and Jay remained behind as the group geared up and set out for 5hr’s of craziness on the Cahabón. Despite, confronting “Rock N Roll,” “Entonces,” and the infamous “Tres Hermanos,” OGG’s “Dream Team” and “Unnamed Boat #2” emerged unscathed from a river that had recently and severely victimized two PeaceCorps volunteers. Back at Las Marías, OGG enjoyed a good meal, a better beer, and a well-earned bed. The following day they would be heading by Micro across the Chixoy-Polochic Fault and Minas Mountains to the Department of Izabal where they would visit the mining affected communities of Cahaboncito, Lotte 8, and El Estor.