Lazy & Crazy on the Cahabón (Written for the OGG Blog)

Semuc Champey

The geological oddity that is Semuc Champey is widely advertised as the most beautiful spot in Guatemala. It consists of a series of limestone pools and gentle waterfalls that perch atop the raging Cahabón River. At its mouth, visitors can gawk as the river disappears in a torrent beneath their feet, and then, after relaxing in the cascading turquoise blue waters above, watch as the river furiously remerges 300m below.

The Cahabón River

The Cahabón Disappearing Beneath Semuc Champey's Lime Stone Bridge

And Reappearing 300m Below

Meanwhile, up above...

Photo courtesy of Laura Huddart

OGG, after an epic week in Tzibal, arrived in Lanquin, a quiet town that largely exists as a service station and hub for the travellers looking to lay eyes on and wallow in the waters of the Lanquin River and nearby Semuc Champey. There, the group settled into a cabana at El Retiro Lodge, a “backpackers paradise” if there ever was one, to enjoy the first of 3 days of relaxation and reflection before ITT. On day 2, OGG migrated the 11 km to Las Marias, a more modest refuge strategically situated 800m from Semuc’s gates. The group spent the better part of the day basking in the sun and bathing in the pools of Semuc before taking to candle light and exploring the nearby Kamba Caves.

Despite its many hotels, hostels, and rumours that Lanquin would imminently acquire its first ATM, rumours that have been circulating since my first visit in 2007, the tourist town still provides no way of getting all important Quetzales. So, leaving the group at Guatemala’s natural spa, Allison and I hauled ass into Cobán to haul out dinero. Not an unenjoyable journey by pick-up and micro through the “egg carton hills” and one which was deliciously capped off by a lunch of empanadas and papas fritas. But, TIG (this is Guatemala) and with wait times the 4hr trip turned into 6 and we returned from our day just in time to see the rest of the group returning in inner tubes from theirs.

The following day the group returned to Lanquin to meet the guys from the Association of Tourism and Ecological Development of Saquijá (ADETES). Deep in the thick of the Guatemalan jungle, and tucked into the mountains of Alta Verapaz, the community of Saquijá was founded over 100 years ago by a group of three families. Today the community boasts about 1000 residents, most of whom live as subsistence farmers. But since 2006, they have begun to use the attraction of the river to improve their circumstances through a community based tourism initiative. ADETES has received professional training from international rafting instructors and the Red Cross of Guatemala and now guides foreigners and locales alike down the class I, II, III, IV, and V’s of the Río Lanquin and Río Cahabón, on a route that has been ranked one of the top twelve jungle river trips in the world by Paddler Magazine.

The "Dream Team"
Photo Courtesy of Allison Isaak

Sadly, Laura had fallen ill and she and Jay remained behind as the group geared up and set out for 5hr’s of craziness on the Cahabón. Despite, confronting “Rock N Roll,” “Entonces,” and the infamous “Tres Hermanos,” OGG’s “Dream Team” and “Unnamed Boat #2” emerged unscathed from a river that had recently and severely victimized two PeaceCorps volunteers. Back at Las Marías, OGG enjoyed a good meal, a better beer, and a well-earned bed. The following day they would be heading by Micro across the Chixoy-Polochic Fault and Minas Mountains to the Department of Izabal where they would visit the mining affected communities of Cahaboncito, Lotte 8, and El Estor.